1980s Chanel Pearl and Gripoix Pendant Necklace

This necklace can be dated to around 1980, prior to the well documented pieces designed when Victoire de Castellane joined Chanel after the arrival of Karl Lagerfeld. The designer of this necklace is most likely Robert Goossens who worked from 1954 with Coco Chanel, and from 1971 her successors. In 2005, Chanel bought the Goosens workshop.

This eye-catching necklace features Gripoix hand-poured glass cabochons. The specialised pâte de verre (glass paste) technique pours the glass directly into the hole by hand, allowing for more flexibility with the final form. Maison Gripoix often collaborated with the house of Chanel and Goossens on designs and manufacturing. Today, the jewellery workshop is also wholly owned by Chanel.

Hanging from a string of large creamy pearls, this chunky, 24ct gold-plated oval pendant has a hammered, organic texture to its surface and is detailed with four circles of gold-plated metal, each containing a hand-poured glossy cherry red glass cabochon. There are four pearls that sit in between these red gems and they all circle a large central emerald green glass cabochon. The edge of the pendant is detailed with a twisting, rope-like motif. The pendant is stamped on the back with the Chanel brand name, the word “depose” and the number “3106”. This incredible piece fastens at the back of the neck with a circular box clasp detailed with a large, 3D double-C insignia.

This piece is in truly excellent vintage condition for earlier Chanel; please note that there is a miniscule bit of wear (1 mm) to the gold-plating on one area on the rear of the pendant. The length is not adjustable.

MEASUREMENTS

CHAIN LENGTH - 17.5 in. (45 cm)

PENDANT LENGTH - 2.5 in. (6 cm)

PENDANT WIDTH - 2 in. (5 cm)