1996 Chanel Runway Documented Haute Couture Black Jumpsuit and Jacket

This elegant Chanel jumpsuit and jacket pairing was featured in the Spring / Summer 1996 haute couture presentation. The show took place on the first floor of the Ritz hotel where Coco had lived for decades. The gilded pillars of the palatial interior lent an added layer of luxury to the collection and allowed guests to see, up close, the artisanal workmanship of handmade clothes. When interviewed for WWD, Lagerfeld declared, 'I love the ambience of Chanel in 1938 and 1939. There's something about playing with danger or frivolity in the face of danger - it's Survival Chic.'

Jumpsuits are a rarer item from Chanel, and this one, together with the jacket is exceptionally well made. It has a sensuous bustier top which is tailored from matte black silk and panels of sheer black mesh. It is boned the whole way around, which cinches the silhouette, and is underwired at the bust. It has thin, flat straps also crafted from matte silk. The body is tailored from black wool with a subtle bouclé texture. The legs are wide and straight and fall to ankle length. The front of the bust is secured with a tonal black zip and the top of the trousers is fastened with a hidden tonal black zip, just under the zip. The trousers are lined with silk crepe.

The jacket is a classic Chanel style. Boxy yet cut to follow the body’s natural curves, it sits against the bottom of the hip. It is collarless and is adorned with four patch pockets. Each pocket is detailed with a flap and each flap is embroidered with slanted, trompe-l'œil stitching which looks like braid. This intricate stitching also adorns the turned-up cuffs and front and bottom hems. The jacket fastens with hidden hook-and-eye clasps along the front. It is lined with matte black silk and the inside of the lower hem is lined with a gold-tone chain - a signature detail of the brand.

This ensemble is in excellent archival vintage condition and is the exact version featured on the runway. Commissioned by a very special client, both pieces can be worn separately which add to the versatility of the set. Due to being couture made, it has no size or composition labels so please check our below measurements carefully as the fabric has no stretch. We estimate a good fit for a UK size 8-10 or US 4-6.

MEASUREMENTS JACKET

BUST - 38 in. (97 cm)

WAIST - 34 in. (86 cm)

HIP - 40 in. (102 cm)

LENGTH - 27.5 in. (70 cm)

SHOULDERS - 17 in. (43 cm)

MEASUREMENTS JUMPSUIT

BUST - 32 in. (81 cm)

WAIST - 28 in. (71 cm)

HIP - 40 in. (102 cm)

LENGTH - 58.5 in. (149 cm)