Pre 1920s Egyptian Black Hammered Metal Assiut Dress

This rare and original kaftan pre-dates 1922 with the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb and the subsequent years when the fashion for all things Egyptian reached its zenith until 1926. The ancient metal embroidery technique marries cotton mesh with small strips of hammered metal and was fashioned into exotic shawls, dresses and jackets during the flapper era worldwide.

Ottoman in origin, it gradually spread south to Egypt and hence earlier pieces are generally geometric in design. Many later 1920s Assiut fabrics feature coptic symbols which is indicative of fabric produced for export and demand was insatiable. Each fragment of metalwork was individually hammered and with a degree of the precious metal - silver. With age this developed a gold-hued patina as the silver gently tarnished.

The cut of this Assiut dress is empire-line, falling in two soft pleats from under the bust to the mid-calf. It has a flattering square-neckline which subtly hints at the décolletage although this garment would almost certainly have been paired with a silk or cotton undergarment for modesty. The gold tinted silver-work is arranged in meticulous detail into a bold geometric textile and vertical linear design. The waistband and hem of the skirt are patterned with zig-zag shapes in shimmering metallic thread. The long narrow sleeves are detailed with coordinating zig-zag patterns at the cuffs.

Entirely handmade, this important and wearable antique textile is for the serious collector being over a century of age. Wear with a traditional slip or for a more contemporary look, modern shapewear. Of note it is a petite size and the proportions suggest it would best suit someone under or close to 5ft 3in or 160 cm and a UK 6-8 or US 2-4. Please check our measurements closely below as the fabric does not have any stretch to it.

MEASUREMENTS

BUST - 32 in. (82 cm)

WAIST - 30 in. (76 cm)

HIP - 40 in. (102 cm)

LENGTH - 47 in. (120 cm)

SHOULDER - 16 in. (41 cm)