Fall 1988 Documented Alaia Red Corset Style Jacket

This iconic corset-style jacket forms an important part of Alaïa’s history. For Fall 1988, Azzendine Alaïa’s muse Naomi Campbell walked the runway modelling the jumpsuit version. Fondation Azzedine Alaïa exhibited it for a major retrospective of the designer’s work and a dress with the same corset-esque lacing is held in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s permanent collection. The Met states:

“Azzedine Alaïa focuses on the challenges inherent in the transformation of two-dimensional textiles into sculptural three-dimensional garments. His sharp, engineered tailoring results in armour-like silhouettes typical of the power dressing of the 1980s, yet his use of body-clinging and tactile fabrics betray a more sensual approach to the body. This corseted, woollen little black dress with a double-breasted closure and wide lapels fuses masculine and feminine dress codes into a garment characteristic of Alaïa's commanding signature.”

Tailored from a lightweight wool in the rich burgundy-red hue that became a signature of the house, it is a play on a suit jacket silhouette. The shape is elongated and closed at the bottom so that it has to be put on over the wearer’s head. Like a blazer, there are wide-lapels, a V-neckline and three pockets; a patch pocket at the breast and two larger patch pockets at the hips which are cut at an angle to mirror the curves of the waist. This is where Alaïa’s talents lay; cutting to flatter the female form. The stitching around the waist recalls the stitching seen in corsetry, cinching the waist and emphasising the wearer’s curves. The front is double-breasted with seven rows of tiny red plastic buttons. The drawstring at the front covers a hidden tonal zip. There are slits at the cuffs and this jacket is unlined save for the yoke around the top portion.

A rare Alaia archival piece in truly excellent vintage condition with no flaws of any note. It looks barely worn and does not have a size or composition label so please check our measurements below. The fabric has no stretch; we estimate this will work best on a size UK 8-10 or US 4-6.

MEASUREMENTS

BUST - 34 in. (86 cm)

WAIST - 30 in. (76 cm)

HIP - 38 in. (97 cm)

LENGTH - 33 in. (84 cm)

SHOULDERS - 18 in. (46 cm)